CK — Power Trunk Lid Upper Pull-Down Installation Guide for Mercedes-Benz E-Class 213

Guide archive: CKCP source archive · Source code: qeSL3sp.

The archived Chinese guide identifies 2016–2023 Mercedes-Benz E-Class 213 vehicles. The installation photographs show an E260L sedan and a left-hand-drive driver's area. They do not establish compatibility with every year, market, body style, steering side or factory trunk configuration.

This guide covers powered struts, reused vehicle springs, mounting brackets, an upper powered pull-down latch, wiring, a rear button and source-described checks. The cover illustration and its “upper soft-close latch” wording do not by themselves define the complete kit.

Installation information awaiting technical confirmation: The source contains conflicting bracket-side labels, and its general power-tap advice differs from the photographed battery connection. Confirm the exact kit, bracket identification, electrical protection and work procedure before using those steps. The retained pictures have not been corrected in this review.

Before installation — image 001

These precautions come from the source image. Installation requires trained personnel.

1. Check for earlier trunk modifications or repairs. Record existing dashboard faults, the vehicle's switches and key-button operation, visible damage and the left/right trunk-lid gaps. Tell the owner about existing abnormalities before installation.
2. Protect trim and painted surfaces with tape or towels; store removed components safely. Remove hard or metal objects that could scratch the interior.
3. Check battery charge before commissioning. The source suggests running the engine beforehand if charge is low; it gives no complete power-isolation procedure for wiring work.
4. The source says to insulate connections, secure the wiring and keep it from interfering with other components. It specifically warns against connecting or disconnecting wiring while powered.
5. The general precautions call for the supplied flat-head body-bracket screws, fully seated strut-socket retaining clips and a firm retention check. Exact fasteners and tightening specifications still need confirmation against the kit and vehicle.
6. The source's general B+ advice mentions a fuse-box supply, while step 16 photographs a trunk-battery connection. Do not choose between those arrangements from this guide alone; the approved connection and protection are not specified.
7. The general precautions discuss marked drilling positions and wire pulling. The vehicle-specific steps below use existing bracket holes and show cutting the rear-button opening in the trim. A generic drilling statement is not permission to drill an unmarked body panel.

The wiring overview continues into image 002. It names a CAN adapter, left and right struts, power lead, button/latch adapters and rear/front buttons. This is an overview, not a connector cavity or fuse specification. Source image 001 · English version

Initial condition and trunk-lid trim — image 002

The source numbers below match the installation photographs.

1. Record the original trunk condition before fitting the kit.
2. Remove the trunk-lid trim and the left/right hinge-arm covers at the locations shown. Release the marked clips first. The photograph labels 1–4 identify locations; they are not a verified count of every fastener.

Source image 002 · English version

Trunk trim and original springs — image 003

3. Remove the left and right trunk-side trim, releasing the indicated clips first.
4. Remove the striker-area trim marked 1 and the lower trim marked 2, releasing the indicated clips first.
5. The source next removes the original left spring.
6. The source then removes the original right spring.

Spring-removal information missing: These photographs do not give a supported-lid position, spring unloading method or safe tool procedure. Have the exact removal and refitting method confirmed before proceeding; the springs are reused in step 14.

Source image 003 · English version

Body and hinge-arm brackets — image 004

7. Insert the supplied nut block through the indicated body opening and align it with the original mounting holes. The source identifies L as left and R as right and describes the same arrangement on the other side.
8. Fit the supplied body bracket to the prepared mounting position shown. Side identification is unresolved: this caption calls it the right body bracket, but the adjacent sequence and photographs do not consistently identify the side.
9. The source describes fitting the other body bracket in the same way as the first. Confirm the L/R parts and their installed orientation before fastening either side.
10. Remove the indicated plastic ring from the original spring hook and fit left hinge-arm bracket A with its screw and washer. Position it loosely first; the source says to tighten after brackets A and B are positioned.
11. Place left hinge-arm bracket B over A, align the holes and fit the supplied screws. The source calls for three washers at the indicated position; it does not specify washer dimensions or a tightening torque.
12. Remove the original spring-hook plastic ring and wire clip on the right and fit right hinge-arm bracket A as shown.
13. Fit the companion B bracket at the position shown. The Chinese caption says “left bracket B,” whereas the English image says “right bracket B” after step 12's right bracket A. Neither label is treated as a confirmed correction here; obtain the exact bracket identification and orientation.

Source image 004 · English version

Powered struts, wiring and latch — image 005

14. Fit the powered struts before refitting the springs. Fit the supplied rubber sleeves over the original springs/hooks as shown. The source says to lower the lid to approximately half height because ball-stud clearance is limited, seat the hinge-arm socket A first and the body socket B second, then hook the original springs into the provided body/arm-bracket holes. L means left and R means right. Fully seat each socket retaining clip; the source warns that an incompletely seated clip can allow a strut to detach. The supported-lid and loaded-spring procedure remains unconfirmed.
15. Route the left strut lead to the control-box location on the left of the trunk. Route the right strut and power leads along the photographed paths to that location.
16. The photograph and caption place the supplied power lead at the indicated trunk-battery connection and call for a securely tightened connection. This differs from the general fuse-box advice in image 001. Battery isolation, terminal identification, fuse protection, cable rating and tightening values are not supplied; this step awaits the approved wiring specification.
17. The source places the ground lead at the indicated left-trunk location and calls for a securely tightened connection. The exact approved grounding point and tightening specification still need confirmation.
18. Replace the original latch with the supplied upper powered pull-down latch, reusing the original screws. The source recommends connecting the rear-button harness's product-latch connector before fitting the latch. Before tightening, align the latch face parallel to the sheet-metal opening as shown.
19. Connect the original vehicle-latch plug to the matching vehicle-latch socket on the rear-button harness. At the indicated exterior trunk-button location, disconnect its plug and insert the supplied handle adapter harness as shown. Connector cavity assignments are not supplied.

Source image 005 · English version

Emergency release, CAN lead, rear button and controller — image 006

20. Route the rear-button lead and upper pull-down latch extension along the left hinge arm to the controller on the left of the trunk. Route the emergency release cable along the right hinge arm to the right rear seat.
21. The source recommends placing the lowest emergency-cable tie at the original hinge-arm wiring clip shown. Leave adequate slack so lid movement does not sharply bend, jam or break the release cable.
22. Place the emergency release cable in the gap beside the right rear seat, as pictured. Its operation after trim refitting is not demonstrated or accepted by this review.
23. Follow the marked route for the CAN lead beneath the driver's seat. The pictured driver's area is on the left; a right-hand-drive routing arrangement is not established.
24. The source caption identifies kit CAN-H to the pictured vehicle purple wire and kit CAN-L to the pictured gray wire. It also says not to disconnect the original connector unnecessarily, to avoid fault codes. These are source-photo descriptions, not a verified pinout for all E-Class 213 vehicles. The connector identity, cavity numbers and approved joining method must be confirmed for the exact kit/vehicle.
25. Position the rear-button template on the trunk-lid trim, centered relative to the sheet-metal opening behind it. The source shows forming the trim opening, finishing it with a utility knife and fitting the supplied rear trunk button. It does not establish a hole size or clearance-check procedure; it must not be read as an instruction to drill the body metal.
26. Secure the supplied controller at the photographed left-trunk location and connect its wiring. The photograph does not provide a readable complete port/kit-revision specification or an accepted mounting and strain-relief check.

Source image 006 · English version

Controls, striker note and source-described checks — image 007

The source describes opening or closing the trunk by pressing and holding the remote key's trunk button or the original front cabin trunk button. It does not give a hold duration or a complete vehicle-state/configuration table.

Striker note awaiting confirmation: The source says to move an off-center striker horizontally to the left until centered in the latch; if closure is too tight, it says to move the striker upward by “one mark.” The photograph does not define that mark as a measurement, provide tightening torque or give an adjustment acceptance procedure. Do not treat this as a universal adjustment direction for every vehicle.

The source's post-installation sequence is:

1. Check that the trunk weatherstrip and trim are fitted correctly and do not prevent full closure.
2. For the first powered operation, close the lid using the trunk button to initialize the system. Then check the remote key, front button, height-memory and anti-pinch functions. The source does not state an initialization-success signal, height-memory setting sequence or safe anti-pinch test method/acceptance limits.
3. Check full closure in the source-described engine-running condition with all windows and doors closed. This is a commissioning check in the source, not an instruction to perform wiring work with the engine running.

Source image 007 · English version

Information still required before installation acceptance

1. Exact vehicle/kit compatibility, including body style, market, steering side and factory trunk equipment.
2. Confirmed L/R bracket identification, loaded-spring/lid-support procedure, fastener and washer specification, tightening values and an accepted mechanical retention check.
3. Approved battery/fuse/ground connection, work-isolation procedure, connector identity/cavity assignments and CAN joining method.
4. Rear-button template dimensions and clearance confirmation, emergency-release operation after trim refitting, and controller mounting/connection confirmation.
5. Defined initialization, height-memory setting, anti-pinch testing, striker adjustment and final fault/closure acceptance procedure.

The exact archived source contains seven images and no video, attachment or external article link. No video from another tutorial is substituted. Historical public-page records remain historical records; this local revision does not constitute technical approval or a new public release.

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Spot an error or an unclear step? Contact the CKCP representative who supplied this guide and include the guide archive ID, step or image number, vehicle model/year and a relevant photo.